Rangkaat is a Hindi word derived from Rang (colour) and Kaat (to cut). It refers to a tradition of specialised weaving in Banaras handlooms, which uses the complementary, interlock technique to create distinct colour-blocked patterns. The use of zari here is both decorative as well as functional, joining these different patterned segments. The process of weaving involved is slow, time and labour intensive, with a requirement of the designers’ abilities to envision tones and shades which will emerge with the insertion of different wefts into a common warp, and their balance in the overall composition of the saree.
Swati & Sunaina Gold’s involvement with the Rangkaat has led them to innovate with an unconventional range of designs, most recently departing from the usual geometrics used to non repeat, organic forms. Further, while the number of colours used initially by the brand ranged from two to three, this has risen to four to five in a single saree. Versions in tissue fabric may be considered as among the brand’s highest achievements till date.
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